Arduous trek through China for beauty

Arduous trek through China for beauty

Davidia involucrata • Photo by Myrabella (CC BY SA 4.0)

Originally published 5 May 1985

On the south­ern slope of Bussey Hill in Boston’s Arnold Arbore­tum there are two trees of the species Davidia involu­cra­ta. For most of the year the trees are incon­spic­u­ous. But in mid-May, at about the time the lilacs bloom, Davidia flow­ers. Each flower clus­ter has two leafy bracts that become snowy white as the flow­ers mature. One bract is about the size of a man’s hand, the oth­er, half that size. When Davidia is in bloom is looks as if a thou­sand white doves are flut­ter­ing in the branch­es of the tree.

It is called the dove tree.

Native of China

The dove tree is a native of the rugged moun­tain coun­try of west­ern Chi­na. The tree came to the atten­tion of West­ern hor­ti­cul­tur­ists when it was described by the French mis­sion­ary priest Père David in 1869. Thir­ty years lat­er, spec­i­mens from the tree were pro­vid­ed to the Veitch Nurs­eries of Eng­land by Dr. Augus­tine Hen­ry, of Simao, Yun­nan, Chi­na. Hen­ry’s mate­ri­als con­firmed David’s descrip­tion of an excep­tion­al tree. The Veitch firm sought a col­lec­tor to go to Chi­na, to dis­cov­er from Hen­ry the loca­tion of the tree, and to return fruits to Eng­land for cul­ti­va­tion. The man select­ed for this task was Ernest Hen­ry Wilson.

On April 11, 1899, Wil­son sailed from Liv­er­pool en route to Chi­na via the Unit­ed States. He broke his jour­ney for five days in Boston, where he con­sult­ed with the staff of the Arnold Arbore­tum on the col­lec­tion of herbar­i­um spec­i­mens and on the pack­ing of seeds and plants for ship­ment. He then crossed the coun­try by train and sailed from San Fran­cis­co, reach­ing Chi­na on the 3rd of June.

Wilson’s first task was to find Hen­ry, in a remote part of south­ern Chi­na near the bor­ders of Laos and Bur­ma. He approached through the port of Haiphong and the city of Hanoi in French Indo-Chi­na, where he was advised to turn back. Chi­na was in tur­moil (this was the year before the Box­er Rebel­lion), and atroc­i­ties against for­eign­ers were com­mon. Wil­son per­sist­ed, and made his way into the inte­ri­or by riv­er steam­er, native boat, mule-back, and sedan chair. There were rumors of may­hem and mas­sacre, and every­where he saw the gris­ly after­math of riot and pun­ish­ment. The heat of the sea­son was almost unen­durable, dis­ease was ram­pant, and the rivers were in flood. After many tri­als and a rig­or­ous jour­ney, Wil­son met Hen­ry in Simao. Hen­ry sketched for him a map of west­ern Chi­na, and marked the spot where he had found grow­ing the only Davidia he had ever seen in all of his trav­els in Chi­na. With this pre­cious trea­sure map, Wil­son returned to the coast.

In April 1900, Wil­son ascend­ed the Yangtze by boat in search of Hen­ry’s sole Davidia. Again he was advised to turn back. The coun­try was trou­bled by riot­ing between Chris­tians and anti-Chris­t­ian vil­lagers. Hun­dreds of peo­ple had been killed and entire vil­lages burned to the ground. West­ern mis­sion­ar­ies had been bar­barous­ly mur­dered. Wil­son pressed on, at last arriv­ing in the vil­lage where Hen­ry had found Davidia 12 years ear­li­er. The tree had been cut down to build a house! Noth­ing remained but a stump.

Now Wil­son resolved to trav­el anoth­er thou­sand miles into the inte­ri­or, and to search for Davidia in the remote region were Père David had found it in 1869. But on May 19, 1900, while col­lect­ing near the ham­let of Ta-wan, he unex­pect­ed­ly came upon a Davidia in full flower. The tree was 50 feet tall, and (as Wil­son wrote) “more beau­ti­ful than words can por­tray.” That chance dis­cov­ery was the crown­ing expe­ri­ence of his life.

Wil­son lat­er found oth­er trees of the Davidia, and shipped many seeds back to Eng­land. One of the two dove trees now grow­ing in the Arnold Arbore­tum derives from one of those seeds.

To Wilson’s cha­grin, his dove tree was not the first to be intro­duced in the West. In 1897, a French mis­sion­ary shipped seeds of the tree to the arbore­tum of Mau­rice de Vil­morin at Nogent-sur-Vernisson, France. From those seeds a sin­gle plant was raised. A root­ed lay­er from the plant was sent to the Arnold Arbore­tum in Boston, where it is still grow­ing, the oth­er of the two doves trees on Bussey Hill.

1000 plants collected

Ernest Wil­son made one more trip to Chi­na for the Veitch firm, and then two more for the Arnold Arbore­tum. More than a thou­sand dif­fer­ent plants were col­lect­ed by him and intro­duced into Eng­land and Amer­i­ca. Every­where on the grounds of the Arnold Arbore­tum his work remains in evi­dence. Fol­low­ing his adven­tures as a col­lec­tor, Wil­son became the assis­tant direc­tor of the Arnold Arbore­tum and made many con­tri­bu­tions to the sci­ence of botany. After the death of Charles Sprague Sar­gent, the founder of the arbore­tum, Wil­son was giv­en the title of Keep­er of the Arnold Arbore­tum. He con­tin­ued Sar­gen­t’s dream of mak­ing that place a great muse­um of nature and cen­ter of hor­ti­cul­tur­al research.

At lilac time, make your way to the Arnold Arbore­tum in Jamaica Plain. Stop at the Vis­i­tor’s Cen­ter to col­lect a map, and then head for the back side of Bussey Hill. There, you will find the trees with a thou­sand flut­ter­ing doves. Your adven­ture in search of Davidia will be less demand­ing than Wilson’s but your reward will be as great. And you will see for your­self why the Veitch nurs­eries sent their agent half way around the world to col­lect the fruits of this beau­ti­ful plant.


Four exam­ples of Davidia involu­cra­ta are now part of the col­lec­tion at the Arnold Arbore­tum in Jamaica Plain, Mass­a­chu­setts. ‑Ed.

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