In the Dreamtime

In the Dreamtime

Photo by Henrique Felix on Unsplash

Originally published 8 June 2008

In ear­ly 1986, Sky & Tele­scope mag­a­zine offered me a free place on their Comet Hal­ley tour to Ayers Rock in the Aus­tralian out­back. In return, I was to write a fea­ture sto­ry on the trip and the comet. Why Ayers Rock? At the comet’s clos­est approach to Earth it was pri­mar­i­ly a south­ern hemi­sphere object, and nowhere else in the south­ern hemi­sphere were skies expect­ed to be as clear and dark as at Ayers Rock.

The oth­er folks on the tour were a remark­able group of ama­teur astronomers who lugged along a truck­load of opti­cal gear. Among them were Sky & Tel’s own Den­nis di Cic­co and Roger Sin­nott, and the leg­endary ama­teur astropho­tog­ra­ph­er John­ny Horne of North Car­oli­na. Oh, what nights! Under the dark­est of skies, the comet blazed in a sea of stars such as many of us had nev­er seen — the South­ern Cross, Ori­on stand­ing on his head, the cen­tral Milky Way a riv­er of light, the Large and Small Mag­el­lan­ic Clouds. The clicks of shut­ters, the beeps of timers, the whirrs of dri­ve mech­a­nisms, and the tick-tock of Sin­not­t’s cuck­oo-clock-pow­ered cam­era plat­form were like the night sounds of an exot­ic desert fauna.

The comet rose in a sky so clear that we spot­ted the coma before half of its diam­e­ter had cleared the dis­tant hori­zon. Even against the back­drop of the Milky Way the comet was con­spic­u­ous. The tail, how­ev­er, was slight, and dif­fi­cult to trace for more than a few degrees. For sev­er­al nights Hal­ley made its way along the curved body of the Scor­pi­on and across the bright­est stream of the Milky Way. Then, in our sec­ond week in the south­ern hemi­sphere, it broke free of the Milky Way into the black sky of the con­stel­la­tion Lupus.

There were plen­ty of objects in the sky — many of them new to most of us — by which to gauge the comet’s bright­ness. In binoc­u­lars, Hal­ley bore a strong like­ness to the glob­u­lar clus­ters that gen­er­ous­ly dec­o­rate this part of the heav­ens. The clus­ter Messier 4 in Scor­pius was visu­al­ly sim­i­lar to Hal­ley, but not near­ly as bright. While the comet was in the Milky Way it seemed an almost per­fect twin to Omega Cen­tau­ri, the won­der­ful naked-eye glob­u­lar clus­ter in the Cen­taur. When it slipped out of the Milky Way, it clear­ly out­shone the clus­ter. But Hal­ley was not by any means the bright­est comet I had seen, and a far cry from the media brouha­ha that had pre­ced­ed its coming.

The Pit­jan­t­jat­jara abo­rig­ines who live near Ayers Rock call comets Wurlu­ru. Wurlu­ru is a very large man who lives alone and some­times hurls his spears across the heav­ens. He is a fero­cious and pow­er­ful fig­ure, great­ly to be feared, but not with­out mer­ci­ful qual­i­ties. The abo­rig­ines say that look­ing at Wurlu­ru for a long time will cause the eyes to spin. By the end of our time at Ayers Rock all eyes were spinning.

So where is the comet now? Hal­ley is cross­ing the orbit of Nep­tune (although not in the same plane, and Nep­tune itself is on the oppo­site side of its orbit), mov­ing ever more slow­ly as it climbs to the top of its track. As seen from the orbit­ing Earth, it seems to be corkscrew­ing its way through the con­stel­la­tion Hydra. In 2024 it will reach its apogee between the orbits of Nep­tune and Plu­to, like a ball thrown up into the air, then start falling back toward the Sun. It will make its clos­est approach to Earth on July 28, 2061. It will not be a par­tic­u­lar­ly favor­able appari­tion, espe­cial­ly for observers in the north­ern hemi­sphere. Tom might be around to tot­ter out into the yard for a look, but I will be long gone.

With its 76-year peri­od, few of us get more than one peek at Comet Hal­ley. One com­pan­ion on our Aus­tralian trip had seen the appari­tion of 1910, Clarence Custer, a pio­neer ama­teur astropho­tog­ra­ph­er. He was 4 years old. My own favorite mem­o­ry of Hal­ley was from a lagoon in Tahi­ti on the trip home from Aus­tralia. I was float­ing on my back alone, under a gor­geous­ly dark sky, and the comet appeared to my eye even brighter than at Ayers Rock. I drift­ed in sea and sky and felt I had been trans­port­ed with Wurlu­ru into the abo­rig­i­nal Dreamtime.

One night in late April, back in Mass­a­chu­setts. I showed the retreat­ing comet to a teenaged Tom. It was again a tele­scop­ic object, rapid­ly flee­ing from the Earth, and looked in the eye­piece of the lit­tle tele­scope like a smudged star. “Is that it?” he asked. Yep,” I said, “that’s it.” He took anoth­er dis­ap­point­ed look. “That’s use­less,” he said in the lin­go of his youth. Lat­er I thought of some­thing Samuel John­son wrote about poets that might apply equal­ly to ama­teur astronomers: “To a poet, noth­ing can be use­less. What­ev­er is beau­ti­ful, and what­ev­er is dread­ful, must be famil­iar to his imag­i­na­tion: he must be con­ver­sant with all that is awful­ly vast and ele­gant­ly little.”

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