Nature takes back an island village

Nature takes back an island village

An abandoned village in the Bahamas • Photo by Venture Minimalists (CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)

Originally published 19 April 1999

EXUMA, Bahamas — The aban­doned vil­lage of Rich­mond Hill lies at the end of a for­est track here, four miles from the near­est paved road on the swampy back side of the island, away from the white sand beach­es and breezy ridges of Exu­ma Sound. It con­sists of about a dozen tiny tra­di­tion­al hous­es, a school, a church, and a cemetery.

Rich­mond Hill was once con­sid­ered the gar­den spot of the island, with many fruit trees — oranges, grape­fruits, guavas, and limes. But it was also a des­per­ate­ly poor com­mu­ni­ty, far off the beat­en path of the new pros­per­i­ty that came with the growth of tourism. Twen­ty years ago the last res­i­dent walked out of the for­est to the Queen’s High­way and left the vil­lage to be reclaimed by nature.

Today you can walk with­in a dozen yards of the vil­lage and not know it is there, so thick is the veg­e­ta­tion that has grown up about it. But push aside the tan­gle of trop­i­cal foliage — bougainvil­lea, yel­low elder, love vine, and fruit trees gone wild — and you can make your way from house to house, now most­ly roof­less, with crum­bling plas­ter walls and win­dow shut­ters hang­ing askew from rusty hinges.

Trekking here recent­ly, my curios­i­ty was piqued by sto­ries told by the island’s old­er inhab­i­tants. It was a Sleep­ing Beau­ty sort of expe­ri­ence: The hous­es con­tained every sign of human habi­ta­tion — pieces of fur­ni­ture, kitchen imple­ments, and bits of dec­o­ra­tion — but trees grew up through floor­boards, vines snaked through door jams, hum­ming­birds dart­ed through open windows.

The most cheer­ful­ly intact build­ing in the vil­lage is the Church of God of Prophe­cy, per­haps because the preach­er — a Rev­erend Cur­tis, accord­ing to my infor­mants — was the last to leave, sev­er­al years after the depar­ture of his dwin­dled congregation.

The exte­ri­or walls of the church are pale blue, with dark­er blue doors and win­dow shut­ters. The inte­ri­or walls are pink. A tat­tered blue cot­ton cloth drapes the lectern. A prayer­book lies open on the lectern, reduced almost to dust by sil­ver­fish. Sun­light streams through miss­ing shin­gles in the roof.

I sat on a back bench and watched and lis­tened. Geck­oes skit­tered on roof beams. A free-toed frog clung to the wall behind my head. Wasp nests hung from the rafters. On floors and walls were the earth­en cor­ri­dors of ter­mites, pen­cil-thin tun­nels con­nect­ing huge ter­mite nests out­side the build­ing to the wood on which the insects feed.

The vil­lage of Rich­mond Hill and its love­ly church are being recy­cled into their con­stituent ele­ments. Even the words of the prayer­book open on the lectern are being con­sumed, made part of the gospel of life itself — the end­less shuf­fling and reshuf­fling of atoms that wastes some crea­tures and envi­ron­ments and brings new crea­tures and envi­ron­ments into being.

Behind the appar­ent decay and new growth the atoms endure, those mys­te­ri­ous and eter­nal par­ti­cles that con­tain with­in them­selves ten­den­cies to com­bine and recom­bine in end­less­ly cre­ative ways.

The sto­ry begins with an explo­sion from a seed of infi­nite ener­gy. The seed expands and cools. Ele­men­tary par­ti­cles form — mat­ter from pure ener­gy — then the par­ti­cles unite to make atoms of hydro­gen and heli­um. Stars and galax­ies coa­lesce from swirling gas. Stars burn and explode, forg­ing heavy ele­ments — car­bon, nitro­gen, oxy­gen — and hurl them into space. New stars are born, with plan­ets made of heavy ele­ments. On one plan­et near a typ­i­cal star in a typ­i­cal galaxy (and per­haps on a thou­sand oth­er plan­ets in oth­er galax­ies) life appears in the form of micro­scop­ic self-repli­cat­ing ensem­bles of atoms. These prog­en­i­tor organ­isms evolve over bil­lions of years, shuf­fling and reshuf­fling their atoms, result­ing in ever more com­plex crea­tures. Con­ti­nents move. Seas rise and fall. The atmos­phere changes. The atoms of life are recy­cled through rock and sea and air and life again. Mil­lions of species flour­ish and become extinct. Oth­ers adapt, sur­vive, and spill out progeny.

The church, the vil­lage, the rank trop­i­cal growth, the crea­tures that creep and fly and crawl are com­posed of recy­cled star dust, atoms forged bil­lions of years ago in hot, mas­sive stars, here woven by the hand of ener­gy and entropy into a fab­ric of gor­geous complexity.

Sci­ence has learned a lot about how it hap­pened — how the atoms flow in their end­less recy­cling — but sci­ence tells us noth­ing about what it means, or if it means any­thing at all. Mean­ing is an act of hope. The peo­ple of Rich­mond Hill built their love­ly blue-and-pink church as a hope­ful affir­ma­tion of meaning.

For some of us, mean­ing is more elu­sive. But there are moments when it seems pal­pa­bly present, as when I sat in the aban­doned church that had become, in its teem­ing soli­tude, part of a rich con­tin­u­um of life.

I went there for the same rea­son the naturalist/scientist Rachel Car­son went to the edge of the sea. She wrote: “Under­ly­ing the beau­ty of the spec­ta­cle there is mean­ing and sig­nif­i­cance. It is the elu­sive­ness of that mean­ing that haunts us, that sends us again and again into the nat­ur­al world where the key to the rid­dle is hidden.”

Share this Musing: