New England’s long rocky road

New England’s long rocky road

A typical New England stone wall • Photo by Sean (CC BY-ND 2.0)

Originally published 15 July 1991

One recent week­end I dug post holes for a patio fence. Five holes, each one foot in diam­e­ter and two feet deep.

How many cubic feet of dirt were removed? Zero.

What I removed instead were 2.26 cubic feet of rocks. Which, by the time I got them all out, had expand­ed to 22.6 cubic feet of rocks, leav­ing holes big enough to use for swim­ming pools. Some of the rocks were the size of my fist, some where the size of breadboxes.

A job that should have tak­en an hour took all weekend.

The moral of the sto­ry: Don’t dig post holes in south­east­ern Massachusetts.

If you want to know why not, just look at my new rock col­lec­tion. These rocks aren’t local. Some of them came from Con­cord, New Hamp­shire. Some of them came from Mont­pe­lier, Ver­mont. Some of them came from Montreal.

All of them were dumped here 15,000 years ago, at the end of the last ice age, as the glac­i­er melted.

Rocks left behind

When the glac­i­er moved down from cen­tral Cana­da it scraped the land clean, right down to bedrock. Then, when the glac­i­er retreat­ed, it dropped its load of erod­ed rock and soil where the ice melt­ed. Fine sand and silt was most­ly car­ried away by melt water and deposit­ed on what is now the floor of the Atlantic Ocean. Heav­ier rocks were left behind.

In my backyard.

Geol­o­gists call this stuff glacial till. No his­to­ry of New Eng­land is com­plete till you’ve includ­ed till.

Native Amer­i­cans who lived in this region before the com­ing of Euro­peans prac­ticed a kind of agri­cul­ture that most­ly ignored the stones in the soil. A patch of for­est was cleared by burn­ing. Heaps of dirt were scraped togeth­er and plant­ed with corn, beans or squash, with maybe a fish or two thrown in for fer­til­iz­er. When the fer­til­i­ty of the soil declined, a new field was cleared and the process start­ed over. Cul­ti­va­tion was by hoes of shell or bone. It was hard­scrab­ble work, but it worked just fine.

Farm­ing in the Euro­pean way was not so fine.

The first sound the Pil­grims heard in the New World was the sound of met­al hit­ting stone. They stuck their spades into the ground to dig foun­da­tions for their hous­es: Clank. They whacked at the ground with hoes to plant veg­eta­bles: Clank. They drove crow bars into the ground to raise a stock­ade: Clank. Clank was the sound of the New World resist­ing the Euro­pean way of life.

Most of the so-called “soil” of New Eng­land is glacial till, and it had to be plant­ed if the first colonists weren’t going to starve. Clear­ing stones from a field big enough for plow­ing was­n’t the work of a week­end. It was­n’t the work of a year even. Rather it was the work of a life­time. The omnipresent stone walls of New Eng­land are the record of many life­times of back­break­ing labor.

Of course, the stony soil was not the only deter­rent to the Euro­pean set­tle­ment of New Eng­land. Native Amer­i­cans were a prob­lem. So were wolves. And the for­est was an obsta­cle. The ax took care of the for­est. Traps and boun­ties took care of the wolves. Guns and deceit took care of the Native Amer­i­cans. But the stones in the soil were ulti­mate­ly defeating.

Quality farmland scarce

To avoid the stones, the first set­tlers sought out the few areas of rock-free soil, most­ly along streams or on the floors of melt­wa­ter lakes that had exist­ed in low­land basins near the end of the ice age. Water flow­ing into the lakes from the melt­ing ice car­ried fine pow­dered rock, which set­tled onto the bot­toms of the lakes, build­ing up thick beds of sed­i­ments. The largest glacial lakes, called Lake Hitch­cock and Lake Upham by geol­o­gists, filled the val­ley of the Con­necti­cut Riv­er from Hart­ford, Con­necti­cut to St. Johns­bury, Ver­mont. Oth­er small­er lakes had exist­ed near Con­cord, New Hamp­shire, and in the val­leys of the Nashua and Sud­bury Rivers. Those scat­tered patch­es of sed­i­ments are New Eng­land’s only pre­mier farmland.

When low­lands had been cleared and plant­ed, farm­ers were forced into the hills. It is said that New Eng­land hill farms were so stony that sheep need­ed sharp noses to graze between the rocks. But it was rocks or noth­ing. By the mid-19th cen­tu­ry, 75 to 80 per­cent of south­ern New Eng­land had been cleared for farm­ing, and most of that was stony soil.

Only a fool would farm on glacial till if an alter­na­tive exist­ed. When less stony land opened up west of the Alleghe­nies in the ear­ly 19th cen­tu­ry, New Eng­land farm­ers locked their doors, took a boat on the Erie Canal, and went west. The land revert­ed to woods. Today, two-thirds of south­ern New Eng­land is wood­ed, more than at any time since the mid-19th century.

My col­lege cam­pus is a micro­cosm of the rest of south­ern New Eng­land. It is about two-thirds wood­ed, but there isn’t a part of those woods that don’t con­tain stone walls and cel­lar holes, indi­cat­ing that at one time the whole place was farmed. I once dug fif­teen post holes in the cam­pus woods to set up mark­ers for a nature trail. One hole was on the site of a dried-up glacial pond, and the dig­ging was easy. Four­teen holes were in the glacial till of old fields and pas­tures, and once the mark­ers were up I swore I would nev­er dig anoth­er post hole.

I for­got that vow — until this past week­end when I remem­bered why I made it.

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