15,000 years or so in the life of Scratch Flat

15,000 years or so in the life of Scratch Flat

Photo by Terry Ballard (CC BY 2.0)

Originally published 29 July 1991

On this day exact­ly 200 years ago Gilbert White, the vic­ar of Sel­borne vil­lage in Eng­land, wrote this in his nat­u­ral­ist’s journal:

Made black cur­rant-jel­ly. Fin­ished cut­ting the tall hedges. Gath­ered some lavender.”

For 25 years White record­ed in his jour­nal the events of his vil­lage: bird migra­tions, the blos­som­ing of trees, the growth of plants, changes in the weath­er. No sin­gle obser­va­tion was itself excep­tion­al, but tak­en togeth­er White’s jour­nal obser­va­tions are a rich­ly tex­tured record of life on one square mile of Eng­lish soil. Out of this record he wrote The Nat­ur­al His­to­ry of Sel­borne, a clas­sic of West­ern literature.

It is more than a clas­sic, it was a begin­ning — the begin­ning of a tra­di­tion of nat­ur­al his­to­ry writ­ing that quick­ly made its way across the Atlantic, tak­ing par­tic­u­lar root in New Eng­land. At the heart of the tra­di­tion is the idea that any place on Earth con­tains all places, and any inter­val of time con­tains all time.

Hen­ry David Thore­au estab­lished the pat­tern for Amer­i­ca. The waters of Walden Pond were deep enough to hold all of human his­to­ry, and the view from the door of his cab­in encom­passed the dis­tant stars. With­in a square mile of land sur­round­ing his pond Thore­au dis­cov­ered uni­ver­sal truths.

A New England tradition

New Eng­land has pro­duced oth­er promi­nent naturalist/writers who set­tled in one unex­cep­tion­al place and nature’s unceas­ing rhythms plug them into the uni­verse. Hen­ry Beston in the out­er­most house on Cape Cod. Hal Bor­land in a qui­et val­ley of the Housaton­ic Riv­er. Edwin Way Teale on an old farm in Con­necti­cut. We could stretch the bor­ders of New Eng­land slight­ly to include John Bur­roughs, who lived in a house called Slab­sides near the Hud­son Riv­er in New York and said that soon­er or lat­er the turn­ing Earth brought every­thing by his door.

John Han­son Mitchell con­tin­ues the tradition.

Mitchell is edi­tor of Sanc­tu­ary, the mag­a­zine of the Mass­a­chu­setts Audubon Soci­ety. He is author of four books on nat­ur­al his­to­ry, includ­ing two that pay par­tic­u­lar homage to the tra­di­tion of White and Thore­au: Cer­e­mo­ni­al Time (1984), and Liv­ing at the End of Time (1990), now pub­lished as a hand­some new paper­back set.

I am late dis­cov­er­ing Mitchel­l’s books. I read reviews when they were first pub­lished and recall think­ing each time, “This sounds like a must-read.” But some­how the books slipped by me until now. And just as well, because back-to-back they make a par­tic­u­lar­ly plea­sur­able read.

Cer­e­mo­ni­al Time is sub­ti­tled “Fif­teen Thou­sand Years on One Square Mile.” The one square mile is a patch of land 35 miles west of Boston called Scratch Flat. It is nowhere, it is every­where. Mitchell tells its his­to­ry, begin­ning with the retreat of the glac­i­ers at the end of the last ice age, and con­tin­u­ing through the tenure of Native Amer­i­cans and set­tle­ment by Euro­peans to the build­ing of Route 495 and the Indus­tri­al Park.

Liv­ing at the Edge of Time takes up where the first book ends. Mitchell builds a one-room cab­in at Scratch Flat, in con­scious imi­ta­tion of Thore­au. The cab­in has no elec­tric­i­ty or run­ning water. Across the val­ley is busy Route 495 and a big new Dig­i­tal Equip­ment Cor­po­ra­tion plant. In this incon­gru­ous envi­ron­ment — Walden Pond meets Amer­i­ca’s Tech­nol­o­gy High­way — he lives for a year.

Modern science and Indian lore

Mitchell min­gles the his­to­ry of Scratch Flat with the lives of his neigh­bors, folks at once unex­cep­tion­al and remark­ably unique. Native Amer­i­cans are promi­nent among them, and both books com­bine mod­ern sci­ence and Indi­an lore in telling the sto­ry of the land. The title of the first book refers to the prim­i­tive con­cept of cer­e­mo­ni­al time, usu­al­ly asso­ci­at­ed with a sacred dance or rit­u­al, in which past, present and future can all be per­ceived in a sin­gle moment.

A Native Amer­i­can named Nom­penek­it explains cer­e­mo­ni­al time to Mitchell: “It is then [dur­ing the rit­u­al] that you can actu­al­ly see events that took place in the past. You can see peo­ple and ani­mals who have been dead for a thou­sand years; you can walk in their place, see and touch the plants of their world.”

It is here, in Nom­penek­it’s def­i­n­i­tion of cer­e­mo­ni­al time, that we catch sight of the real sig­nif­i­cance of the nat­u­ral­ist tra­di­tion — the tra­di­tion of White, Thore­au, and Mitchell.

Sci­ence insists upon uni­ver­sals, laws of nature that are con­stant in time and space. The pat­terns and rhythms estab­lished by those laws per­sist across eons and light years. By insert­ing our­selves into those pat­terns and rhythms we are able to see peo­ple and ani­mals who have been dead for thou­sands of years: wool­ly mam­moths and dire wolves, mastodons and saber-toothed tigers. We can walk in their place, at the edge of the great glac­i­ers. We can see and touch the plants of their world. We can join the sacred rit­u­als Nom­penek­it’s ances­tors in a pris­tine world still recov­er­ing from the chill of ice.

For the nat­u­ral­ist, sci­ence is more than a col­lec­tion of facts about the world. It is a way of engag­ing with uni­ver­sals, of insert­ing our­selves into the fab­ric of nature. Sci­ence is a mag­ic car­pet that lets us trav­el to the end of time and to the out­er­most cor­ners of the galax­ies — all with­out leav­ing the one square mile of our own backyards.

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